Exposure Bracketing

Exposure bracketing is a simple technique professional photographers use to ensure they properly expose their pictures, especially in challenging lighting situations. When you expose for a scene, your camera’s light meter will select an aperture / shutter speed combination that it believes will give a properly exposed picture. Exposure bracketing means that you take two more pictures: one slightly under-exposed (usually by dialing in a negative exposure compensation, say -1/3EV), and the second one slightly over-exposed (usually by dialing in a positive exposure compensation, say +1/3EV), again according to your camera’s light meter.

For my tests, I chose a familiar subject, Mother Brook and added some shots of the dam at Stone Mill.

https://realrealityproductions.wordpress.com/2013/03/05/stone-mill-mother-brook-dedham-ma/

I chose an auto exposure bracketing setting of 2/3, which produces an image of normal(0)EV, +2/3(+.7)EV and -2/3(-.7) EV. All these images are jpgs and have been shot large. I also shoot raw.  I’m looking for a certain balance of grays and a deeper black from my black and white images.  lb

Note: One thing that I never really thought about, with respect to auto exposure bracketing is how the images are shot by the camera (i.e. were three separates images with three different exposure settings produced or did the camera use the same image and somehow produce different exposure settings with the data from the one image, three times?). The camera produces three separate images which are three different moments in time. The image differences are indistinguishable in a static scene but not in a scene with movement. You can see this with the snowflakes in the second series of shots.

Example #1

It was a clear, sunny day. This set of three images below is a good example of what you can expect in good light from the Xpro1 when bracketing is set as mentioned above.

2013_0320ADFuji XPro1 18mm(27mm equiv.) f/13 @ 1/420s 0EV

2013_0320AEFuji XPro1 18mm(27mm equiv.) f/10 @ 1/420s +0.7EV

2013_0320AFFuji XPro1 18mm(27mm equiv.) f/16 @ 1/420s -0.7EV

Example #2

It was a gray, snowy day for this set of three images.

2013_0307BKFuji XPro1 18mm(27mm equiv.) 0EV

2013_0307BLFuji XPro1 18mm(27mm equiv.) +.7EV

2013_0307BMFuji XPro1 18mm(27mm equiv.) -.7EV

More images to come from the mill complex and dam.

 

All rights reserved © 2018 Leo F. Brady

Exposure Bracketing | return to Mother Brook | Leo Brady

Exposure bracketing is a simple technique professional photographers use to ensure they properly expose their pictures, especially in challenging lighting situations. When you expose for a scene, your camera’s light meter will select an aperture / shutter speed combination that it believes will give a properly exposed picture. Exposure bracketing means that you take two more pictures: one slightly under-exposed (usually by dialing in a negative exposure compensation, say -1/3EV), and the second one slightly over-exposed (usually by dialing in a positive exposure compensation, say +1/3EV), again according to your camera’s light meter.More at http://www.photoxels.com/tutorial_exposureBracketing.html

The above link is an excellent tutorial for those interested in learning more about and exploring the technique further.

For my tests, I chose a familiar subject, Mother Brook and added some shots of the dam at Stone Mill. https://realrealityproductions.wordpress.com/2013/03/05/stone-mill-mother-brook-dedham-ma/
I chose an auto exposure bracketing setting of 2/3, which produces an image of normal(0)EV, +2/3(+.7)EV and -2/3(-.7) EV. All these images are jpgs and have been shot large. I also shoot raw.  I’m looking for a certain balance of grays and a deeper black from my black and white images.  lb

Note: One thing that I never really thought about, with respect to auto exposure bracketing is how the images are shot by the camera (i.e. were three separates images with three different exposure settings produced or did the camera use the same image and somehow produce different exposure settings with the data from the one image, three times?). The camera produces three separate images which are three different moments in time. The image differences are indistinguishable in a static scene but not in a scene with movement. You can see this with the snowflakes in the second series of shots.

Example #1

It was a clear, sunny day. This set of three images below is a good example of what you can expect in good light from the Xpro1 when bracketing is set as mentioned above.

2013_0320ADFuji XPro1 18mm(27mm equiv.) f/13 @ 1/420s 0EV

2013_0320AEFuji XPro1 18mm(27mm equiv.) f/10 @ 1/420s +0.7EV

2013_0320AFFuji XPro1 18mm(27mm equiv.) f/16 @ 1/420s -0.7EV

Example #2

It was a gray, snowy day for this set of three images.

2013_0307BKFuji XPro1 18mm(27mm equiv.) 0EV

2013_0307BLFuji XPro1 18mm(27mm equiv.) +.7EV

2013_0307BMFuji XPro1 18mm(27mm equiv.) -.7EV

More images to come from the mill complex and dam.

Stone Mill & Mother Brook, Dedham MA | L Brady

DSCF0964UP
Fuji XPro1 18mm (27mm equiv.) lens F11 1/420 ISO 200 in B/W Mode *basic cleanup mods

DSCF0961UP
Fuji XPro1 18mm (27mm equiv.) lens F11 1/350 ISO 200 in B/W Mode *basic cleanup mods

DSCF0961UPcrop
Fuji XPro1 18mm (27mm equiv.) lens F11 1/420 ISO 200 in B/W Mode cropped from above, *basic cleanup mods

In Boston and the surrounding communities, many of the old mills still exist but have been converted. This is Stone Mill and Mother Brook.

All images here are shot with a Fuji XPro1 and an 18mm (27mm equiv.) lens in B/W Mode, large, high quality jpgs

*basic cleanup mods – I typically just use Preview to adjust exposure, contrast and sharpness if required. I’d like to start using bracketing more to eliminate even that but…